Sunday, 19 September 2010

Zips

This is part of the Skill Bite section of the Simplicity Dress 3833 series. If you have missed any of the series please visit the Introduction page, where you will find all of the previous links.

Different Zips


There are many different types of zips out on the market, including invisible zips, zips with plastic or metal teeth and nylon zips.  They also come in a wide variety of colours and sizes, don’t worry too much about if the zip is too long - they are very easy to make shorter.

Inserting Zips

A while ago I made a Hobo Shoulder Bag where I explained in detail how to attach a zip and also to make one shorter, please visit my previous entry to see how I do them.
Here are the steps to inserting a zip simplified:
  • On the position where the zip will be placed use a baste stitch to make a seam
  • Press seam open
  • Line up the zip
  • Stitch the zip in place
  • Unpick basting

As I used a standard zip on the back of the dress it can be seen, if I had used an invisible one it would not be easy to see. The zip has not been finished at the top as I want to get it out easily for using on the final dress.

Useful Resources

If you prefer learning from watching videos I recommend Angela Kane’s Make Your Own Clothes. In particular, part 5 and 6 covers inserting invisible zips.
For  a quick tutorial on inserting zips visit YCMTTV video on How to Install a Zipper.

Sunday, 5 September 2010

Darts

This is part of the Skill Bite section of the Simplicity Dress 3833 series. If you have missed any of the series please visit the Introduction page, where you will find all of the previous links.

What are Darts?

In the simplest terms sewing darts are used to shape a garment. You will find darts on tops, sleeves and skirts- anywhere that shape will be needed.

Sewing with Darts


This is a bodice pattern piece with a dart marking at the bottom.


When I see darts on sewing patterns they remind me of triangles.

To transfer the markings onto your fabric, please visit my previous blog entry on Transferring Pattern Markings.


Pinch the dart using your fingers to join the ends of the lines together, remember to match the dots on either side of the fabric.


When pinning the fold keep the pins horizontal.


Stitch the dart using a sewing machine, always sew from the raw edges of the fabric to the centre of the dart. Back stitch at the start of the dart and when nearly at the end of the dart change the stitch length to a shorter one. Never back stitch at the end, and leave enough thread to be able to tie a double knot. Darts are always finished this way to stop puckering.


Press the dart using a tailors ham to assist with shaping, always press the way it was sewn.


A pressed dart.

This is how the dart looks on the garment.

For a video tutorial on sewing darts visit The Craft Channel on YouTube.